Lost Wanderer

Wool is a wonderful material in many ways:  It’s water resistant, yet it wicks water from your body.  It’s a wonderful insulator that doesn’t lose its insulating value or fiber strength when it’s wet.  It’s naturally elastic, so it keeps its shape.  It’s static free, wrinkle resistant, breathable, durable, and flame resistant.  It takes colors well, resists dirt, has natural high UV protection, is non-allergenic, and is renewable.  (Wool – facts behind the fiber, Wool qualities, and Guide to Wool)

Having said all this, it does have some negatives:  It’s a heavy material (especially if soaked).  It can have a wet sheep odor if it gets wet.  And it can be attacked by some species of insects.  (Although wool is generally treated to deter this.) 

But, here I want to focus on what have always been its two biggest problems.  It itches, and it shrinks when exposed to heat. 

I always hated wearing wool as a child because it so itched badly.  (If you can’t wear wool of any sort (cashmere, merino, etc))  As an adult I hadn’t gone near it in years. 

But, recently that has all changed.   They now make miraculous non-itchy wool that feels like cotton.  I own ten pairs of wool socks for winter wear, and they are fantastic.   I can be on my bike in 10 degree weather with running shoes on, and my toes will feel just a bit cool.  (I did buy the thickest brand of socks I could get.)

Although there might be similar brands, the only one I’m familiar with is Smart Wool.  (Smart Wool)  They use the finest quality wool to start with.  Then they have to go through several steps to transform normal wool into their final product. 

First, they use activated peroxide to bleach the wool and remove a protective lipid layer on the fibers.  Removing the lipid layer makes the wool more easily dyeable, which as a result can be done at lower temperatures.  Traditionally wool has had to be dyed at high temperatures, which weakened the fibers.  So Smart Wool is also stronger wool. 

Next, they use an enzyme to digest the microscopic scales that are on the fibers.  These scales look a bit like shingles under a microscope, and are what cause wool to itch.  They also overlap and lock into place when wool is heated, which is what causes it to shrink when you run it through the wash. 

The net result is wool that is stronger, and even more durable.  It’s just as elastic, more easily dyeable, completely non-itchy, machine washable, and can be run through a dryer.  (Wool Biopolishing Process Scratches the Itch Factor)  Several reviews report they might have also minimized the wet wool odor problem.  (Smart Wool Lightweight Block Tee)

The remaining significant issue, which is simply intrinsic to wool material, is that, compared with some other fabrics, it’s heavy.  Also, I strongly suspect that, even with its superior wicking ability, wool might be too warm to be an ideal material under hot conditions.

Breakthroughs do have their costs, because one final major consideration is that pair of Smart Wool socks costs about $20, and a heavy underwear top costs about $100.  

When the patents run out, I suspect there will be at least a minor revolution in the clothing world, as a number of clothing designers replace other fabrics with this new non-itchy miraculous material.