Every year about 4,000 people in the United States die in fires.  Approximately 3,500 (80%) of these deaths are from residential fires.  The other 500 deaths are from motor vehicle crashes, aircraft crashes, electricity, chemicals, hot liquids, hot substances, and other sources of burn injury.  (Burn Incidence and Treatment in the US: 2007 Fact Sheet - American Burn Association)  Burns are one of the most expensive catastrophic injuries to treat.  A burn involving 30% of your total body area can cost as much as $200,000 in initial costs and fees. (BURN INJURY FACTS - Burnfree)

Certain groups are at higher risk from fire-related injuries and deaths.  These include males, children under 5, adults 60 and over, African Americans, American Indians, people who live in small rural communities, the poor, those living in substandard housing or manufactured homes, and people in the Southeast.  Risk factors for fires also include it being wintertime, and alcohol use (40% of deaths). 

In home fires most people die from smoke inhalation while they are asleep, and not from burns.  About 2/3 of these deaths occurred in homes without a working smoke alarm, and installing one reduces you chance of dying from a home fire by about half. (1)  The safest type of alarm has a combination of ionization and photoelectric sensors, which gives you better protection against both fast flaming and slow smoldering fires.  You should have one on every level of your home, inside bedrooms, and outside sleeping areas.  Alarms should be placed either in the center of the ceiling, or, if installed on a wall, between 6 and 12 inches below the ceiling.  You should test the batteries regularly, or get the kind of alarm with sealed lithium batteries designed to last 10 years.  Don’t locate them too close to a fireplace, heating appliance, or stove since this might cause false alarms.  Don’t locate them near bathrooms, windows, or ceiling fans.  Keep them free of dust, and replace them every 10 years. (Smoke Detector Guidelines – Township of Edison New Jersey)

A sprinkler system is one of the best protections against fire, and will typically lower insurance rates by 5% to 15%.  For a new home the cost of a sprinkler system is about $1.00 to $1.50 per square foot, and retrofitting a home with a sprinkler system can be done using minimal extra piping.  (Fire sprinkler system – Wikipedia, Residential Sprinkler Systems – USFA, Fire Protection Systems: Industrial & Commercial – Koetter)  If you want to protect your electronics and books, etc. from water damage you can get a Sapphire system that uses 3M’s Novec 1230 fluid.  It looks like water, but doesn’t get things wet and damage things.  (Sapphire: A Liquid That Won’t Get Things Wet) (Ansul SAPPHIRE™ Fire Suppression Systems & Ansul Products both by Tyco Fire and Security) (Vanguard Sapphire Systems) Commercial properties sometimes use foam/water sprinkler systems.  (FOAM/WATER SPRINKLER SYSTEMS, ANSUL® R-102 kitchen fire suppression system)

You should have and practice a fire escape plan.  Draw up a floor diagram, so everyone can see the whole plan.  Every room should ideally have two escape routes.  Keep an emergency ladder on upper floors of your home, and, of course, make sure all your windows will open and you can crawl out through them. (Portable Fire Escape Ladders – firesecapesystems.com)  If an alarm sounds don’t try to save property, but get out. (2) Sleep with the bedroom doors closed, since this will give you more time by keeping smoke out of your rooms.  Everyone should know to roll out of bed, stay low, and crawl to get out of a fire.  Staying low makes it easier to breathe and see, since smoke rises.  Practice alerting other household members.  Have a designated meeting location, with one person assigned to go to a neighbor’s home to call the fire department.  Teach your children how to call 911.

You should buy sleepwear that’s labeled flame-resistant. (How to Pick Flame-Resistant Sleepwear – eHow)  Make sure everyone knows to stop, drop and roll if their clothing catches fire.  Cover your face and hands to prevent fire from getting to your eyes, nose, and mouth.  If you get burned remove all clothing and jewelry from the area of the burn, and immediately place the wound in cool water for 10 minutes.  Cover the area with a clean dry cloth.  Do not use butter on a burn, since this could further damage the skin.  If a burn blisters or chars, or is bigger than your fist, see a doctor immediately.

Once you have escaped from a fire get medical attention even if you think you are fine.  You might have been exposed to smoke, will suffer its effects later, and not realize it immediately. This site (After a Fire – FireSafety.gov) provides advice on how to recover after a fire.  It has suggestions on what to do in the first 24 hours, insurance issues, how to value your property, valuable documents, salvage tips, fire department operations, etc.

Heating and cooling equipment are very common sources of home fires.  These include your furnace, space heaters, fireplaces and chimneys, water heaters, and heat transfer systems.  All of these should be inspected annually.  

Space heaters are especially dangerous, since two thirds of home heating fires in the U.S. in 1998 were caused by space heating equipment.  All types of them are involved in fires: electric heaters, kerosene heaters, wood stoves, fireplaces, and room gas heaters.  Never leave any space heater unattended.  Electric space heaters must have the Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) label.  Check to be sure it shuts off if tipped over.  Don’t use one to dry clothes.  Don’t store things on top of it.  Keep all combustibles at least three feet away from a space heater.  Unplug it when it’s not in use.  Turn off space heaters (or unplug them) whenever you leave the room.  Kerosene heaters must be UL approved.  Never fill one with anything but clear K-1 kerosene, and never overfill it.  To prevent carbon monoxide poisoning use one only in a well ventilated area.  (Carbon Monoxide – Lost Wanderer)  These are dangerous devices that have been banned in New York City.

Electrical fires are commonly caused by faulty wiring and lighting, and they are the third leading cause of home fires.  Problems can come from frayed wires, faulty electrical outlets, extension and appliance cords, plugs, overloading circuits, and old wiring.  Wiring should be replaced when it becomes stiff or cracked through wear, flexing, or age.  Unless you are trained don’t “fix it” yourself, but have an electrician do it. 

Extension cords shouldn’t be used as a long term solution for too few wall outlets; one reason is that they can become damaged when they are run under rugs or furniture.  Don’t run them over nails, in high traffic areas, or against walls where heat can build up.  You shouldn’t use an extension cord with a space heater, microwave, any other cooking appliance, and any appliance that draws much current.  Don’t run multiple high amperage devices off of one outlet by using a power strip.  Instead you should have an electrician install more outlets.  Check if any electrical outlets, switches, or cords are overloaded by feeling if they are unusually hot to the touch.  Are any of your electrical outlet cover plates discolored?  This could also be a sign of overheated wires.  You should tie any excess electrical cord with twist ties to reduce the likelihood a child or pet will chew on them.  You can also buy a holder designed to hide extra cord.  (Organize and Protect all Your Cables and Cords - Cablecordorganizer) 

Only use the proper sized fuses in your fuse box.  Unplug all the bathroom appliances when you’re not using them. (3)  You should install ground fault circuit interrupters in the bathrooms and kitchen, (How does a GFCI outlet work? – HowStuffWorks) and install arc fault circuit interrupters throughout your house. (Preventing Home Fires: Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) - Consumer Product Safety Commission)  When buying a house have the electrical wiring fully inspected. (Fire Safety Tips)

The appliances that cause most electrical fires are electric stoves and ovens, central heating units, televisions, dryers, radios, and record players.  Keep electrical appliances away from water, and be especially careful about this in the kitchen and bathroom for fear of electrocution.  Don’t allow children to play with or around appliances such as irons, hair dryers, or space heaters.  Look for the Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) mark on the appliances you buy.  Keep combustible items, such as curtains or clothes, three feet or more away from all heaters.  Only use three-prong plugs in three-slot outlets, otherwise you have defeated the ground on the appliance.  Shut off and replace light switches that are hot to the touch, or if the lights flicker.  Use electrical outlet covers to child-proof them. (Children and Electrical Outlets – State Farm Insurance, Electrical Safety – KidSafe Home Safety Products, Sliding Safety Plate for 3-Pronged Outlets – Safebeginnings.com) 

Position your television and stereo equipment against the wall, so children can’t get to the back surfaces and cords.  But also be sure these appliances have adequate ventilation, so they don’t overheat.  If you use an electric blanket be sure to follow all the safety precautions provided.  Only buy new electric blankets, and replace any that is over 10 years old.  (Older blankets cause 99% of electric blanket fires.)  Clean the clothes dryer vent of lint after each use.  Regularly inspect your electrical tools for signs of wear.  Replace any chords that are frayed or cracked, and replace any toy, tool, or appliance if it causes small electrical shocks, overheats, shorts out, smokes, emits an unusual smell, or sparks.  When kids get older make sure they’re careful when using irons or curling irons, since they can be very hot for some time after they are used.

Be sure to use the correct wattage bulbs for a fixture.  Keep combustibles away from light bulbs, especially halogen ones.  Don’t place clothing or cloth on top of a lampshade to dry items, and always use a lampshade.  Nightlights should never be in contact with fabric.

Mattresses (4), bedding, and upholstered furniture are where many fires start.  They are often ignited by open flames from such things as cigarettes, cigars, cigarette lighters, matches, and candles.

Smoke outside if you can, and consider using fire-safe cigarettes.  (But many smokers say they “taste like crap.”) (Smokers burned up over ‘fire-safe cigarettes’)  Set your lighter on low flame.  Close your matchbook before striking.  Use deep stable ashtrays placed on sturdy and hard to ignite furniture.  Extinguish all smoking materials before you leave.  Dowse butts and ashes in sand or water.  When smokers visit your home ask them to smoke outside.  If they smoke inside you will need to check in and under furniture afterwards for left butts.  Try not to smoke if you have been drinking, are taking medicine, drugs, or are sleepy.  Of course, never smoke in bed, or even when lying down anywhere.  Don’t smoke in a house where oxygen is used. 

Keep matches and lighters away from young children by storing them in a locked cabinet or drawer, and teach them they aren’t toys.  About 7% of structure fire deaths in the United States are caused by a child setting a fire, and children playing with fire cause more than one-third of preschool child deaths by fire. (BURN INJURY FACTS – Burnfree)  Don’t leave a child alone in the bathroom, kitchen, or a room with a lit candle, lit fireplace, hot appliance, stove, or portable heater.

If you use candles put them in stable holders positioned where they can’t be easily knocked down, and don’t put them near fabric.  If an area has a draft, something like a drape could be blown into a candle.  Never leave lit candles unattended.  You can also get flame-protective shades or globes for candles.  Never spray an aerosol can near a lit candle or any other open flame.  If the power goes out use a flashlight instead of a candle. 

Cooking accounts for most home fires, and unattended cooking causes most of these fires.  You actually shouldn’t leave the kitchen if the stove is on, but if you must you should set a timer to remind you.  Never leave the house when the stove is on.  In general, don’t wear loose clothing when cooking anything anywhere.  Try to avoid clothes with sleeves, but if your shirt or blouse does have sleeves at least roll them up.  If possible avoid reaching over the stove, and, to reduce the risk of this, don’t store things over or behind the stovetop.  Since children often don’t appreciate the danger, there should be a three foot zone marked out around the stove (or anything else that is hot, such as a fireplace or a portable heater) where children aren’t allowed.  Don’t allow a child use a walker in the kitchen.  Turn the handles inward so your pots and pans won’t be knocked or pulled (by a curious child onto themselves) off the stove.  Install a stove shield, and cook on the rear burners of your stove.  (Stove Top Shield – Security World)  Install stove and knob locks.  Keep cooking surfaces clean.  Keep curtains, pot holders, towels, flammable cleaners, and solvents away from kitchen heat sources.  Don’t get in the habit of leaving anything make of fabric, such as pot holders, on the stovetop when the burners are off.  Don’t hold a baby while cooking.  Don’t drink hot beverages or soup when a child is sitting on your lap.  Don’t carry hot dishes or liquids around kids.  Kitchen appliances should be unplugged and their chords hidden when not in use. 

Close the oven door and turn off the heat to smother a broiler or oven fire.  To put out a pan fire slide a lid over the flames to smother an oil or grease fire, and then turn off the heat and let the pan sit and cool.  Keep a lid handy in case you need it.  Use baking soda to put out other food fires. Don’t use flour or water on cooking fires.  Have the right type of fire extinguishers throughout your home, especially in your kitchen, and know how to use them.  (Fire Extinguisher Reviews and Buying Guide – GALT) (5) 

Don’t heat baby bottles in a microwave.  The milk or formula might heat unevenly and scald your baby’s mouth.  Allow food cooked in a microwave to cool for a few minutes, and open microwave food containers carefully.  Be careful with hot foods and drinks around children.  Don’t use tablecloths or large placemats with children because they could pull a hot drink or food onto themselves.  Keep hot things away from table edges.  Test a food’s temperature before giving it to a child. 

For barbecuing, before lighting up, check the fuel line and connection between the propane tank and grill.  Make sure the tubes where the air and gas mix are not blocked.  Check your grill thoroughly for leaks or cracks before using it.  You do this by smell and the soapy bubble test.  Don’t overfill the propane tank, and never start a propane grill with the lid closed.  Never grill or barbecue in enclosed areas since the carbon monoxide could poison you.  (Carbon Monoxide – Lost Wanderer)  Keep the grill at least 10 feet away from your house, garage, and trees.  Don’t use grills on top of anything that can catch on fire. 

As always when dealing with fire, don’t wear loose clothing while barbecuing.  Use long handled barbecue tools and flame resistant mitts.  Only use barbecue starter fluid on a barbecue fire, and when using it don’t squirt fuel into a fire.  The flame can run up the stream to the container causing it to explode.  Of course, keep matches and lighters away from children.  Don’t let kids play around a grill or fire pit.  Mark out with a chalk line a no child area three feet around the grill.  Keep all alcoholic beverages away from the grill since they are flammable.  Don’t leave the grill unattended.  Have a fire extinguisher and water nearby so you can douse the fire if necessary.  When you are done, douse hot coals with lots of water and stir them thoroughly.  Clean and store the grill properly.  Never store flammable liquids or pressurized fuels in the house, in the garage, or near any source of flame or heat. Never keep gasoline in the house.

If a fire starts, turn off the burners on a propane grill, close the grill lid on a charcoal grill, and disconnect the power on an electric grill.  On a propane grill if you can reach the safety valve shut it off, but if the fire involves the tank leave the area and call the fire department.   

Beware of turkey fryers, since they have burnt a number of homes down. (Turkey Fryer Safety – Scottsdaleaz.gov, Turkey fryer – Wikipedia, Turkey Fryer Safety Tips)

Fireplaces need to be cleaned frequently since they build up creosote in their chimneys.  They should also be regularly inspected for cracks and obstructions that can lead to fires.  Make sure the damper is open when starting a fire.  Flammable liquids should never be used to start a wood fire.  Don’t burn trash, paper, or green wood in your fireplace, since they cause more creosote buildup than wood, and also can lead to large uncontrolled fires.  Use a heavy and large screen to catch flying sparks and rolling logs.  It should cover the entire opening.  As always, don’t wear loose-fitting clothes near open flames.  Teach children to never put anything into the fireplace, especially when it is lit.  Also teach them that the glass doors to the fireplace can be very hot.  Make sure the fire is totally out before going to bed or leaving the home.  You should store the cooled ashes in a sealed metal container outside. 

Build campfires away from dry grass and leaves where they won’t spread.  Have water and a shovel on hand to douse the fire when you’re done.  Douse it, stir it, and douse it again.  Don’t leave it unattended.

Wood stoves cause about 4,000 home fires each year.   You should follow the installation and maintenance instructions.  Buy one that is solidly constructed with plate steel or cast iron.  Make sure that there aren’t any cracks, and that the joints and seams are smooth.  You should screen it as you would a fire place.  Never burn treated lumber (Lead Poisoning – Lost Wanderer), plywood, green wood, artificial logs, or trash in one, but only seasoned wood.  Check and clean the chimneys and pipes every year.  Check monthly for obstructions or damage.  Keep all combustibles three feet or more from it.  It’s okay to leave a wood burning stove operating unattended on the condition that it’s in good working order.  If they are hot to the touch radiators and electric baseboard heaters need to be screened the same as a fire place. 

Always test the bath water with your elbow (and possibly a meat thermometer) before putting your child in.  Bath water should be warm (100 F), but not hot.  Set the thermostat on your water heater to 120° F (49° C), or the “low-medium setting.  Also install anti-scald devices. (Anti-Scald Shower Valves – HomeTips)  You should turn the cold water on first, and then turn it off last, when running water in the bathtub or sink.  Turn kids away from the fixtures in the tub, so they’re less likely to play with them.  Use a cool-mist type of humidifier or vaporizer rather than a hot-steam one.

The safest choice is not to use fireworks, but, if you do, always have a bucket of water and fire extinguisher handy.  Never ignite them indoors or near dry grass.  Of course, (for the last time) when using fireworks don’t wear loose clothing.  Stand back from lit fireworks.  If a device doesn’t perform don’t pick it up or stand over it.  Pour water on it, pick it up with tongs, and throw it out.  (You should also wear hearing protection when setting them off.  (Tinnitus and Permanent Hearing Loss – Lost Wanderer))

When you select a Christmas tree the needles should be green and pliable.  If you shake a branch, and a lot of needles fall off, the tree is too dry.  The trunk should also be sticky.  Don’t put it up too early, and don’t keep it up longer than two weeks.  If the tree has been stored for more than three days without water cut one inch off the bottom of the trunk, and then place the tree in a stand that holds at least a half-gallon of water.  Keep the tree stand full of water.  Don’t place the tree close to a heat source, such as a fireplace or heating vent.  Don’t flick or drop smoking ash on it.  Never put lit candles on a tree, and don’t go near it with any open flame.  You might try using the product No-Burn 1019 Christmas Tree Fire Gard.  Don’t put the tree where it cuts off an exit. 

Make sure your light strands are in good condition and fused properly.  Check for frayed wires, cracks in the insulation, broken or cracked sockets, or excessive kinking.  Unless the directions say otherwise, don’t link more than three strands together.  The wires shouldn’t be warm to the touch.  Test them before you put them on the tree and don’t leave them on unattended.  Use only nonflammable decorations.  If you use an artificial tree be sure it is flame resistant. (How to Prevent a Christmas Tree Fire – eHow, Holiday Fire Safety – USFA)  Don’t use electric cords on a metal tree.  Don’t burn the tree in your fireplace or stove, but dispose of the tree by taking it to a recycling center, or through a community pick-up.   

During Halloween it is best to not use candles in jack-o-lanterns, but instead use battery powered lights.  Only use flame retardant costumes.  (Halloween safety tips – New York City Fire Department) 

To protect your property from an advancing fire keep your lawns trimmed and leaves raked.  Thin the trees and brush within 30 feet around your house.  You should plant fire resistant plants.  Your roof and rain-gutters should be kept free from debris.  Try to wash your roof on a regular basis.  Keep flammable materials, such as stacked firewood, at least 30 feet from your house, other wooden structures, and fences.  You can install protective roofing, stone, brick, and metal to protect your home.  Exterior vents, attics, and eaves can be covered with fine metal mesh screens.  Multipane windows, tempered safety glass, and fireproof shutters will protect large windows from radiant heat.  Fire resistant draperies offer added protection.  The Castle Defense company sells foam and gel systems for spraying down your home and property that create a defensive fire barrier.  (Castle Defense)  During winter clear snow away from fire hydrants in front of your home or building.

If you are building a new home you have many more options for building in fire resistance.  To fire harden one particular home the architect used ICF foam building blocks manufactured by Arxx, a steel interior frame, insulated shutters, no ventilation, and defensible space landscaping.   (Fireproofing a Dream Home – Napa Valley, CA)  (See also: How to Build a Fireproof Home By Amy R. Hughes and Mark Powers – This Old House, How to Build a Fireproof Home – eHow)  I was once told by a workman that galvanized steel tubing conduit (aka Galvanized rigid conduit (GRC)) is the ultimate gold standard for wiring conduit, but it’s difficult to work with, so it tends to be used only in industrial applications.  (Electrical conduit – Wikipedia)  I’ve written before about one man who built The Ultimate Secure Home.  (Secure Homes and Survival Shelters – Lost Wanderer)  The house is an underground Formworks steel reinforced concrete home, which should stand up to any forest fire. (6)

If you live in the country you should post house address signs that are clearly visible from the road.  Emergency vehicles must have access to the property, with roadways and driveways at least 12 feet wide with adequate space to turn around.   Hydrants and ponds must be accessible to the fire equipment.  Be careful if you burn waste, and be sure to check the local laws before you do so.   

Arson occurs about 18,000 times a year and accounts for around 320 deaths a year.  To reduce your risk from arson keep trash from accumulating on your property, don’t have abandoned vehicles on it, remove dead branches, and install outdoor lighting to deter intruders.  If a child exhibits fire-starting behavior seek professional help, and don’t hesitate to report a neighbor’s child who starts fires to her parents or the authorities.  

There are a number of good general rules for dealing with high-rise, motel, and hotel fires, but you should remember that every fire is different, and sometimes you will have to make very hard decisions without knowing all the facts. 

In a high-rise never lock or block the fire exits, doorways, halls, and stairways.  Make sure that your apartment door is a tight-fitting self-closing type of door.  Keep rubbish out of the hallway.  Don’t prop a fire door open.  The exit stair doors should ideally be self-closing, snap shut, and unlock from both sides.  Have the building manager post the evacuation plan in high traffic areas, and have everyone learn it.  Practice your escape plan together.  Post emergency numbers near all telephones.  Fire hazards include such as things as blocked exits, piled-up trash, missing exit lights and open fire doors. Report them to your superintendent.  If the fire starts in your room get out quickly, close the door (but don’t lock it), sound the alarm, and let the front desk know.

If the alarm sounds feel the door with the back of your hand to see if it’s warm.  If it is warm don’t open it, but instead stuff the door’s cracks, the ventilators, and any other sources of smoke with wet cloth or tape to keep the smoke out.  Fill the bathtub with water, and use it to douse and cool the door or any other hot surface.  Create a mask of wet towels.  If you have a phone, call the fire department and tell them which room you are in.  In general turn off all fans and air conditioners, but remember the bathroom vent might be useful for clearing smoke.   Signal at a window with a flashlight or by waving a sheet.  Do not break the window because smoke might come in and you will need to re-close it, but see if you can open it to get fresh air.  If fire is outside your windows then close them, tear down the drapes, and move combustibles away from them.       

If the door is cool and you decide to open it, get low to the floor, brace your body against it, and slowly open it a small bit.  If the hall and stairs is clear of smoke then evacuate the building, but take your room key with you.  Close the door behind you to keep smoke out of it in case you have to return to it.  Stay low and crawl.  A few feet above the floor might make the difference between toxic gasses and heat versus breathable air.  If you run into smoke or flames on your way out you might have to return to your apartment.  Never use an elevator to escape since it might stop, instead use the stairs.

When staying in a hotel or motel ask if they have smoke alarms and fire sprinklers.  When you get to your destination read the evacuation plan, locate the two exits from your room, the fire alarms on you floor, and count the number of doors from your room to the exits as you walk the escape route.  If the exit doors are connected to an alarm obviously don’t test them.  Check if the stairwell doors will lock behind you.  If they do, and if a fire occurs, be careful about committing to that route of escape.  Check and see if you can open your room’s windows, and if not, plan what you would use to break them.  Locate the fire alarms and extinguishers, and review how to use them.  Try to get a room on a lower floor.  Ask for a map of the building.  You should take a flashlight and a battery powered smoke detector along when you travel.  Place the detector on the inside top of the door of your room, but not near any vents.  Put your flashlight and room keys in your shoes when you go to bed.  If a fire starts leave everything else behind.  Use the wall as a guide as you crawl.  If your escape is blocked then either return to your room, or hope the building has a rooftop exit.  If you end up on the roof, close the door behind you, stay on the windward side, and signal the firefighters below.  If you are traveling in another country remember that many of the industry’s standard safety features might not apply. (How to Survive a Hotel Fire - wikiHow)

(1) Post 1989 homes commonly are built with a hard wired interconnected smoke alarm system.

(2) You might consider using a safe deposit box, or having a fire safe box (or even a room) in your house, for your important items and papers, so you won’t be tempted to save them.

(3) Actually experts recommend that all appliances be unplugged any time they’re not being used, including computers, TV’s, and stereos.

(4) You might consider replacing any mattress made before 2007, because after that date they have had to meet the Federal Flammability Standard.

(5)  To avoid a kitchen explosion and fire from a natural gas leak or propane leak you might consider buying a home gas detector.  For example First Alert makes the GCO1CN, which is a combination gas and carbon monoxide detector.  (See also: MANUFACTURER LIST: GAS DETECTORS: RESIDENTIAL AND RECREATIONAL VEHICLES: LISTED BY UNDERWRITERS LABORTORIES) 

(6) For more general information on robust construction methods, see:  Hurricane construction guide, Hurricane construction, house building methods in high wind prone areas.)

(firesafety.gov, How to Prevent Burns – eHow, Preventing Burns, Shocks, and Fires – Household Safety, Child safety: How to prevent burns - Mayo Clinic, Fire Safety – Safetyresource.org, Fire safety – New York City Fire Department, Home Fire Prevention – U.S. Fire Administration)

One problem people have is determining whether they have food poisoning or if they have the flue.  Food poisoning tends to start and end much more quickly than the flu, and usually lasts from 12 to 24 hours.  Flu symptoms generally develop slowly over a day or so and a person typically develops a headache, fever, weakness, and a sore throat.  In addition to the speed of onset the three main clues suggesting you don’t have the flu and do have food poisoning are frequent vomiting, repeated diarrhea, and (sometimes) if others who ate the same food are sick in the same way.  

If someone is poisoned the advice varies depending on how severe it is and how vulnerable the patient is.  If the victim is a member of an especially vulnerable population, such as an infant, you should go to a doctor.  If you are a healthy adult, and any of the following symptoms occur, the advice also is to get to a doctor:

See medical attention if you have a fever over 101 F, you have been vomiting for more than 12 hours, you haven’t been able to keep fluids down for at least 12 hours, you have serious muscle cramping, you have bloody diarrhea, or suspect you have botulism. 

The big concern with food poisoning, except if you have botulism, is dehydration.  Dehydration is indicated by any of the following symptoms: having a dry mouth or sticky saliva, have little urine or dark urine, being dizzy, lightheaded, confused, having an increased heart rate, having problems with breathing, having a fast rate of breathing, having no tears, or having sunken eyes. 

In very serious cases of food poisoning medications may be prescribed to stop the cramping and vomiting, and a doctor might also prescribe antibiotics.  However, you should never stop diarrhea because its purpose is to clear the toxins from the body.  

Botulism is a much more serious matter, and you should get to a hospital if you think you have it.  Its symptoms include a headache, double vision, dizziness, weakness, droopy eyelids, constipation, dry mouth, paralysis, or the loss of reflex to light.  The antitoxin for it must be given in the first 72 hours after symptoms first appear, and cannot be used on infants.

If you choose not to go to a doctor you should rest in bed, avoid activity (especially after eating), take plenty of fluids (ideally containing electrolytes - but not lots of sugars), and have someone monitor you.  You can get electrolyte drinks sold in drugstores.  Unless the condition is extreme (and if it is you should be in the hospital) you shouldn’t take medicines to prevent the vomiting and diarrhea because, as mentioned above, these are the mechanisms by which your body gets rid of food toxins.  If you can, temporarily discontinue all oral medications.  Avoid dairy products (because of temporary lactose intolerance), and caffeinated drinks.  Don’t eat solid foods until you stop vomiting, when you began to do this limit them, and only eat light, soft, bland foods (such as saltine crackers or plain bread).  One option is to try the BRAT diet, which gets its name from the four foods it includes: banana, rice, applesauce, and toast.  Eat and drink slowly, and don’t mix hot and cold foods.  Avoid brushing your teeth after eating since this can make you nauseous.

Alternative medicine sites sometimes recommend taking charcoal tablets that soak up toxins.  Others recommend treatments with two bacteria found in milk products, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, along with citrus seed extract.  A fluid to replace water and electrolytes can be made by adding one teaspoon of salt and four teaspoons of sugar to one quart of water. Two herbs that are sometimes recommended for treating forms of food poisoning other than botulism are Arsenicum album and Nux vomica. You might consider calling your doctor and asking about any other foods or liquids, and off the shelf medicines, you should take. 

From my prior posts regarding symbiotes (We Need Our Symbiotes – Lost Wanderer , We Need Our Symbiotes II – Lost Wanderer, and Umami Hypothesis – Lost Wanderer) readers will know that I have mixed feelings about going all out to avoid germs, (For a lighthearted spoof of this issue see: Germs – Weird Al Yankovic) but with that in mind here’s the advice I’ve been able to find on-line regarding trying to prevent food poisoning:  

Prevention:

Foods from animal sources (FFAS) include such things as meat, milk, poultry, seafood (such as fish and shellfish), and eggs.  Check the expiration dates on FFAS before buying or preparing them.  Keep FFAS cold, and do not allow them to sit at room temperature.  Cover and refrigerate these foods within a few hours.  Be careful to keep juices from animal sources from contaminating other foods, such as by dripping down in the refrigerator.  Don’t thaw FFAS at room temperature.  Thaw meat in the refrigerator allowing 1 day for every 5lbs.  Alternatively immerse FFAS in a cold water bath and change the water every 30 minutes (a 20 lb turkey will take 12 hours to thaw in cold water.)  Don’t refreeze foods that have been thawed (especially poultry), and don’t partially cook a FFAS one day and then finish cooking it the next.  FFAS should be cooked thoroughly to the appropriate internal temperature for the type of meat it is, (See the chart at: Safe Food Handling – USDA) and you should be sure of the temperature by using a good instant-read, digital, probe meat thermometer that is sensitive at the tip.  (Of course, some FFAS are safe because they have been pasteurized.)  Don’t cook stuffing inside the turkey, and remove it from the turkey before refrigerating leftover meat.  Gravy and broth should be stored separately, too.  The general rule is keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold.

Don’t drink unpasteurized milk (or foods made from it), juice, or cider.  (Commercial juices sold at room temperature are safe because they have been pasteurized.)  (Buying food that has been sterilized by using gamma radiation is another option. (Food irradiation – Wikipedia))  Breast-feeding is safest for infants and might prevent many food borne illnesses as well as other health problems. Don’t eat shellfish that has been exposed to red tides or are from contaminated waters.  Don’t give honey to children under 1 year of age. Don’t store food in containers that previously held poisons or are made of metals.  Don’t eat wild mushrooms unless you are certain they are safe.

Wash your hands, cutting boards, work surfaces, and utensils with soap and hot water both before and after handling raw FFAS.  Wash raw fruits and vegetables thoroughly before eating them, out of concern for E.coli, Salmonella, and pesticides.  (Some people recommend avoiding alfalfa, bean, clover, or radish sprouts altogether since they are difficult to clean.)  Wash your hands with soap after handling reptiles, birds, or feces.  If you are ill (especially with diarrhea or vomiting) do not prepare food for others.  Cover any sore on your hands before preparing food

If you do home-caning, of course, use the proper procedures, while remembering that undercooking is the main problem in home canning.  Rotate dry and canned food products.  Put a “Use by” date on your canned products, and if a store bought product does not have a “Use by” date take a black ink marker and write the purchase date somewhere on the label.  High-acid canned food such as grapefruit, tomatoes, and pineapple can be stored for 12 to 18 months.  Low-acid canned foods such as poultry, fish, meat, and most vegetables will keep from two to five years if stored in a cool dry place.  Avoid containers that are swollen with bulging lids, are rusted or leaking, are dented, have an unusual odor, or have an odd color.  The rule is when in doubt, throw it out.  (See: Safe Home Canning of Fruits, Vegetables and Meats - University of Minnesota Extension and USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning, 2009 revision) 

Those at high risk, such as people with weakened immune systems, infants, the elderly, and pregnant women should avoid soft cheeses (such as feta, Brie, Camerbert, blue, Mexican style) and foods from deli counters.  (Hard cheeses, processed cheeses, cottage cheese, cream cheese, and yogurt are considered safe.)

If you need to move anything from its original package to a new container, take a marking pen and write on the new container in large letters the common name of the product.  This is especially important for products that are not easily identifiable, because while what it is might be obvious to you it might not be obvious to someone else.  To help prevent cross contamination have separate color-coded plastic cutting boards or cutting plastic surfaces for different foods.  An example would be red for red meats, yellow for poultry, tan for seafoods, green for fruits and vegetables, blue for ready-to-eat foods, and white for dairy.  Store baking utensils together and keep them separate from cooking utensils.  The same goes for the pots and pans and so forth. 

Things you should have in your kitchen include:

You should have a liquid soap in a dispenser for hand-washing at your kitchen sink.  (Antibacterial soaps aren’t an improvement, but what is important is to thoroughly scrub under running water for at least 20 seconds.) 

You should also have an easily readable thermometer for your refrigerator placed in front for easy reading. (This is also the warmest part of the refrigerator.)  Keep your refrigerator set so it reads 40° F, and your freezer at or below 0 F. 

You should have a paper towel dispenser instead of using kitchen sponges or cloth towels, since they are excellent breeding grounds for bacteria. 

You need shallow pans or containers to store foods in the refrigerator.  Shallow pans allow more surface area for more rapid cooling.

Restaurant Eating:

You should order foods or dishes that are mostly made-to-order.  This means most of the cooking of the main part of the dish (the meat, chicken or seafood part) is done after it is ordered.  If this is not clear from the menu then ask.  Temperature abuses are more likely to occur with foods that the cook is keeping warm with a steam table or a warmer rather than keeping cold in a refrigerator.

Stick with ordering foods that you are familiar with, either because you have had it before or you know how it’s prepared.  You will be more likely to notice if something is wrong.

Know the minimum cooking temperatures of the meat and seafood products you order and make a request that the food be cooked to this temperature. For example, when ordering a hamburger, ask for it to be cooked to an internal temperature of at least 160 F.

If you are served an undercooked meat or egg product in a restaurant, send it back for further cooking.  You should also ask for a new plate.  If the problem is more than it simply being undercooked, but the sight, smell, or taste suggests some other concern don’t eat it and don’t re-order the same food again.  The server might possibly re-serve you what you just returned, or perhaps all the servings of that food might be unsafe.  This is especially likely to be the case if it came from a batch processed food.  Avoid raw or rarely cooked meats, eggs, and seafoods; this includes such dishes as sushi, sashimi, raw oysters, rare hamburgers, or raw egg sauces (such as hollandaise, béarnaise, etc.). 

If you are going all out you should regularly review a restaurant’s inspection and violation history.  This is part of the public record.  Familiarize yourself with the structure of the food inspection report used by your local program.  Look at previous inspections for temperature violations and food-borne illness investigations.  Investigate the training that your restaurant chef received by looking for food safety certificates, degrees, etc.  Many local public health programs now publicize the inspection results on the Internet as well as require food facilities to post inspection grades, and will make them available for review by the public upon request. (For more information regarding preventing restaurant food poisoning see: Food Poisoning Information Center)

(Food Poisoning – Medline Plus, What medicine is there to treat food poisoning? – Go ask Alice!, Food Poisoning – Treatment, Food poisoning prevention – University of Iowa, Food Safety – Prevention – NOAH, Food Poisoning, Food Poisoning Prevention, Food poisoning prevention – MedlinePlus)

Even though radon has always been with us, until homes and buildings became well insulated it didn’t present much of a problem since the average concentration of radon in outside air is a low 0.4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). (2)  The real concern is that radon can accumulate to much higher concentrations in indoor air because over the years construction standards have improved resulting in better sealed homes.   In such situations radon can seep into buildings through cracks in their foundations, through well water, or come in around water or sewer pipes, and increase in concentration. (3)   The result is that the EPA estimates that the average indoor level of radon is 1.3 pCi/L and at this level over a lifespan it will cause between 3 and 13 lung cancer deaths per 1,000 people.  (The Health Risk of Radon Gas – VSI Environmental)  A level of 1 pCi/L is the risk equivalent of 20 chest x-rays per year, and a level of 4pCi/L is the risk equivalent of 200 chest x-rays per year.  (Radon Myths and Facts – Radon Doctor)  It’s estimated that radon causes about 21,000 additional lung-cancer deaths every year in the United States.  By comparison drunk driving kills about 17,400 people a year, falls in the home 6,000 a year, and home fires about 2,800 a year. 

Given this situation standards were necessary, and the EPA eventually determined that a reasonable action level was 4 pCi/L.  Even at this moderate concentration it’s estimated that one in fifteen homes are above it, and over a lifespan there will be between an additional 13 and 50 people in 1,000 who will die from lung cancer.  For those who smoke the issue is even more pressing since it is known that smoking synergistically interacts with radon, multiplying the risk of lung cancer for any given level of exposure.  Because of these facts the U.S. Congress has set a goal that indoor radon levels should eventually be reduced to the same as outdoor levels, but the problem is that this can’t be done with the current technology and available resources.  For now people can generally afford to reduce radon to around 2 pCi/L. 

Radon levels do vary greatly within buildings, with the highest concentrations in the lowest areas, and above the first floor the problem largely disappears in many homes.  To determine the level of radon in a building there are do-it-yourself kits as well as professional testing.  The kits are of two types, short term (less than 90 days) and long term (greater than 90 days).  The advantage of the short term kits is that they provide a quick understanding of the situation, while the long term ones give a better understanding of the average indoor radon level throughout the year.  This is important since the concentration of indoor radon can vary greatly depending on such factors as how often windows are left open.  Frequently both methods are used since they are both fairly inexpensive.  However when selling a home these methods often aren’t sufficient and professional testing is necessary since independent documentation is frequently required. 

If the levels are above 4pCi/L, there are several common methods available to address the problem.  The simplest approach is to seal the cracks in the building’s foundations.  Then the next step is a vent pipe system, which involves using a pipe and fan to suck radon from beneath the building’s foundation and vent it to the outside air.  These methods aren’t excessively costly, and typically run about $1,200 for repairing a home if a contractor is used.     

(1) Although the literature is generally of the opinion that lung cancer is the only health risk from radon, some people speculate that radon might also be a risk factor for Alzheimer’s. (Alzheimer’s – Lost Wanderer) 

(2) It should be noted that, since the risk from radon is continuous, no level is safe.  Even at the 0.4  level over a lifetime such exposure will lead to about 1-3 people in 1,000 to die from lung cancer.

(3) Radon levels in homes can get very high.  In 1984 Stanley Watras was a construction engineer working on the Limerick Nuclear Power Generating Station in Pottstown, Pa.  Before the plant had gone into operation he found himself setting off the radiation alarms when he was entering the plant.  The problem was eventually traced to high levels of radon in his home, which had 4,400 pCi/L in the cellar, 3,200 pCi/L in the living room, and about 1,800 pCi/L in the bedrooms.  (Radon – A Short History)  This level presented an equivalent risk  to him of smoking 135 packs of cigarettes a day, or 49,275 packs a year. (Stanley Watras – Wikipedia)

(A Citizen’s Guide to Radon: The Guide to Protecting Yourself and Your Family From Radon – EPA, Radon – EPA)

• The Bifidobaterium lactis strain may be partly responsible for breast-fed infant’s enhanced immune systems.
• Bifidobacterium infantis may reduce symptoms associated with inflammatory bowel disease and irritable bowel syndrome (bloating, cramps, gas, diarrhea).
• Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus are used in yogurt and help decrease lactose intolerance and may prevent diarrhea. Be sure the label on the yogurt says it contains live and active cultures.
• Lactobacillus rhamnosus GG (LGG) and Saccharomyces boulardii may help treat diarrhea associated with antibiotic treatment. Antibiotics sometimes destroy healthy bacteria while trying to kill unhealthy bacteria and sometimes diarrhea will result.
• Lactobacillus acidophilus may help decrease yeast infections.
• Lactobacillus casei may help reduce the incidence of cancer, specifically bladder cancer.

The hygiene hypothesis seems to be gradually being refined into what has been called the Old Friends Hypothesis.  The shift is from one of believing that we benefit from infections with various organisms in general sort of way, to saying that bad organisms are bad for us, and good organisms (symbiotes) are good for us.  So, obviously we should try to avoid the bad ones and seek out the good ones.  Here are two previous blog posts of mine that touch on this issue The Umami Hypothesis – Lost Wanderer and Apitherapy & Biotherapy – Lost Wanderer. 

Here is a general survey of some of this material by Gut Buddies: ‘Friendly’ bacteria: side-lined healers - Gut Buddies (Some of the friendly bacteria (and products) referred to by Gut Buddies in this post are: segmented filamentous bacterium, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium infantis 35624, Puritan’s Pride, Lactobacillus reuteri, B. infantis 35624, Lactobacillus F19, L. acidophilus NCFB 1748 and B. lactis Bb12, Advanced Oral Hygiene with S. salivarius and B. coagulans, PerioBalance with Lactobacillus reuteri Prodentis, Halofuginone, and Bacillus polyfermenticus). 

Helminths (hookworms and whipworms, etc.) have been apparently very effective in helping with numerous allergic and autoimmune conditions, including allergies, asthma, autism, Crohn’s Disease, Eczema, Irritable Bowel Syndrome, Multiple Sclerosis, Psoriasis, Sjögren’s Syndrome, and Ulcerative Colitis. (AutoimmuneTherapies) (Hookworms are our Little Friends - Lost Wanderer)

Similar immune-modifying symbiote-based therapies might help with many other diseases and conditions: 

Alzheimer’s (Alzheimer’s Inflammation May Trigger Alzheimer’s Disease via Autoimmune & biotherapy news 2009/7/9 – Gut Buddies) (See also: Alzheimer’s – Lost Wanderer)

Aortic dissection (Inflammation Critical in Aortic Dissection, Researchers Find via The worm’s next success? – Gut Buddies)

Autism (Autism May Be Linked to Mom’s Autoimmune Disease (type 1 diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis and celiac disease) via Autoimmune & biotherapy news 2009/7/9 – Gut Buddies) (See also: The Vitamin D Theory of Autism – Lost Wanderer)

Dental Issues (Probiotic lozenges promote oral health - Gut Buddies (GUM PerioBalance (Lactobacillus reuteri Prodentis) and Advanced Oral Hygiene lozenges (S. salivarius and B. coagulans)

Depression (Is Dirt the New Prozac? by Josie Glausiusz (concerning the common soil bacterium, Mycobacterium vaccae)

Diabetes (Diabetes- Lost Wanderer)

Diarrhea (Kefir benefits the sickest young children on antibiotics - Gut Buddies)

Flatulence Odor (You Can be a God/Goddess – Lost Wanderer (Odafree/Whiff withYucca Shidgera from desert Yucca, Fructo-oligosacharides from Jerusalem artichokes, and Copper Chlorophyllin from alfalfa. Local inventor clearing the air on pill that helps you breathe)

Gastric reflux (Reflux Esophagitis Due to Immune Reaction, Not Acute Acid Burn via The worm’s next success? – Gut Buddies)

Migraine Headaches (Migraine Headaches - Lost Wanderer)

Narcolepsy (Narcolepsy Is An Autoimmune Disorder, Stanford Researcher Says via Autoimmune & biotherapy news 2009/7/9 – Gut Buddies)

Obesity (Study Confirms: Your Hidden Food Allergies Are Making You Fat via Give microbes to mum for less-allergic young - Gut Buddies)

(Probiotics may reduce belly fat in women (Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium) via Obesity As An Immune Disorder – Matt Metzgar)

(Early differences in fecal microbiota composition in children may predict overweight (Staphylococcus aureus) via Obesity As An Immune Disorder II – Matt Metzgar)

(Childhood: Food Allergies May Be Linked to Obesity by Nicholas Bakalar and The Effect of The ALCAT Test Diet Therapy for Food Sensitivity in Patient’s With Obesity via Obesity As An Immune Disorder III – Matt Metzgar)

(Obesity – extending the hygiene hypothesis via Microflora - Matt Metzgar)

Obsessive-compulsive disorder (Link Discovered Between Antibodies To Strep Throat Bacteria And Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (and Tourette syndrome) In Mice (Group A beta-hemolytic streptoccoccus (GABHS)) via The worm’s next success? – Gut Buddies) 

Schizophrenia (Schizophrenia - Lost Wanderer) (Immune System Activated in Schizophrenia via The worm’s next success? – Gut Buddies)

Vaginosis (Bacterial vaginosis treatments: Probiotics can increase effectiveness of some antibiotic therapies via Autoimmune & biotherapy news 2009/7/9 - Gut Buddies)

Recently, Matt Metzgar has been posting a lot on the topics of probiotics (1) and prebiotics.  Matt began by pointing out the site Paleobiotics, which discusses how the ancient diet influenced people’s gut flora.  The diets of hunter gatherers would have had a lot of indigestible fibers in them, which were instead consumed by our gut bacteria.  Since we no long eat this sort of diet we harbor somewhat different colonies of bacteria, to the likely detriment of our health.  Matt points out that in one study (Can vegetables help you resist infection?) that men who took prebiotics massively increased their good gut bacteria, but the group only taking a probiotic didn’t benefit very much. (See also: Eat Bugs. Not Too Much. Mainly With Plants via Prebiotics versus Probiotics - Matt Metzgar) 

Conditions that Matt talks about that might be influenced by the types of bacteria we harbor include:

Allergies  (The role of Probiotics in allergic diseases, Maternal breast-milk and intestinal bifidobacteria guide the compositional development of the Bifidobacterium microbiota in infants at risk of allergic disease, (bifidobacteria) Babies, Bacteria and Breast Milk: Genome Sequence Reveals Evolutionary Alliance (Bifidobacterium longum supsp. infantis) via Balancing Bacteria - Matt Metzgar and Babies and Bacteria – Matt Metzgar)

Anxiety, in patients with chronic fatigue (A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled pilot study of a probiotic in emotional symptoms of chronic fatigue syndrome (Lactobacillus and Bifidobacteria) via Probiotics and Mood – Matt Metzgar)

Chronic diarrhea (Don’t poo-poo technique: Fecal transplant can cure superbug, doctors say via Transplanting Good Bacteria - Matt Metzgar)

Cold and flu symptoms in children (Probiotic effects on cold and influenza-like symptom incidence and duration in children, (Lactobacillus acidophilus or L acidophilus NCFM in combination with Bifidobacterium animalis) and HOWARU  (Bifidobacteria and Lactobacilli) via Probiotics for Children – Matt Metzgar)

Dental Issues (EvoraPlus via Probiotics and Oral Health - Matt Metzgar)

(The effects of manuka honey on plaque and gingivitis: a pilot study, Streptococcus mutans in saliva of normal subjects and neck and head irradiated cancer subjects after consumption of honey via Honey and Oral Health - Matt Metzgar)

(Peelu, Comparative effect of chewing sticks and toothbrushing on plaque removal and gingival health, Subgingival plaque microbiota in Saudi Arabians after use of miswak chewing stick and toothbrush, Chewing sticks versus toothbrushes via Chewing on Fiber II - Matt Metzgar)

(Toothbrushing with vegetable oil: a clinical and laboratorial analysis via Brushing with Vegetables - Matt Metzgar)

(Dietary fiber intake and dental health status in urban-marginal, and rural communities in central Mexico  and A longitudinal study of the relationship between diet intake and dental caries and periodontal disease in elderly Japanese subjects via Chewing on Fiber - Matt Metzgar)

(See also: Dental Related Information – Lost Wanderer)

Hypertension (The Improvement of Hypertension by Probiotics: Effects on Cholesterol, Diabetes, Renin, and Phytoestrogens via Hypertension and Probiotics – Matt Metzgar)

(1) In addition to the conditions mentioned in this post, probiotics might also help with such things as lactose intolerance, colon cancer, cholesterol, improving immune function and preventing infections, improving mineral absorption, preventing harmful bacterial growth under stress, and managing urogenital health.  (Probiotic – Wikipedia)

For those who want to go a step further, and live as safe and green as possible, you can make your own products.  I won’t try to reproduce the vast lists of specific formulas people recommend for doing home chores, but only try to hit a few of the highlights.  If you wish to pursue this, the links provided below should more than get you going.  (Also, for a whimsical perspective on replacing products with substitutes – which aren’t necessarily green – you can take a look at Joey Green’s Wacky’s Uses for Brand Name Products site.)

There are a few ingredients common to many of the recommendations people make. (From Non-Toxic Home Cleaning - Eartheasy): 

Baking Soda – cleans, deodorizes, softens water, scours.

Soap – will clean most things. (unscented, phosphate free, and doesn’t contain petroleum distillates) 

Lemon (juice) – a strong acid that is effective against most bacteria.

White Vinegar – cuts grease, removes mildew, odors, some stains and wax build-up.

Washing Soda – is sodium carbonate decahydrate.  It will cut grease, remove stains, soften water, clean walls, tiles, sinks and tubs.  Do not use on aluminum.

Ethanol Alcohol – is an excellent disinfectant.

Corn Starch – can be used to clean windows, polish furniture, and shampoo carpets and rugs.

Hydrogen Peroxide - used as a disinfectant.    

You can find suggestions for just about every conceivable purpose: air fresheners and deodorizers, fabric softeners, furniture polish, stain removers, pesticides (ants, fleas, flies, mice, mites, mosquitoes, moths, roaches, wasps, etc. ), windshield washer fluid, shoe polish, rust removers, disinfectants, cleaners for glass, your hands, the oven, vinyl, wood, drains, mildew, toilets, paintbrushes, floors, tub and tile, aluminum, copper, brass, silver, porcelain, etc.   

On a related issue, there are sites online that focus on cosmetics safety.  The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.  Here is an article that discusses this issue: Safe Cosmetics by Christina Hartje-Dunn,  

Here is a somewhat random selection of books on safe and green cleaning:  Clean Your House Safely and Effectively without Harmful Chemicals by Randy Dunford, Green Clean: The Environmentally Sound Guide to Cleaning Your Home (Paperback) by Linda Mason Hunter, Green Clean by Linda Mason Hunter, Better Basics for the Home: Simple Solutions for Less Toxic Living (Paperback) by Annie Berthold-Bond, and Easy Green Living: The Ultimate Guide to Simple, Eco-Friendly Choices for You and Your Home (Paperback) by Renee Loux.

Here are a number of online articles dealing with green living and safe cleaning:  Safer Alternatives To Common Household Products - Barlow Scientific, Hazardous products and healthy alternatives – King County, A Consumer Guide To Safer Alternatives To Hazardous Household Products, Part 2; The only 18 things you need for a clean house by Valerie Rains, Shine staff, Cleaning the House Safely by Elizabeth Hughes, Alternative Cleaners - Howare County Recycling District, Natural Insect Pest Control – Eartheasy, Non-Toxic Home Cleaning – Eartheasy, Alternative Cleaning Recipes – Ecology Center,  Non-Toxic Household Cleaners by Kendra Cecil, Less Toxic Alternatives – Clean Community System, Hazardous Household Substances: Alternatives That Are Relatively Free of Toxic Effects by Marie Hammer, Tips on finding the safest household products – King County, Safer Alternatives to Hazardous Household Products – State of Nevada Bureau of Water Pollution Control, Home and Garden Tips – Natural Resources Conservation Service: U.S. Department of Agriculture, Safe Alternatives to Household Hazardous Products – Sierra Club of Canada, Safe Alternatives to Hazardous Household Products – King County Kid’s Page, Household Hazardous Products - Univ. of Missouri Extension, Green-Clean Your Home By Amy Roffman New, From Natural Health, September/October, 1994; and How to Make a Non-Toxic Cleaning Kit by Annie B. Bond,   

One of the major players in this disaster was the Ethyl Corporation.  In its pursuit of profits it criminally exposed workers to lead in its factories, and lied about it while they were dying.  Its lead-based-no-nock-gasoline-additive eventually put about seven million tons of lead out through the tailpipes of cars into the atmosphere. (1) (The Ethyl-Poisoned Earth by Alan Bellows)

The main cause of lead’s toxicity is its ability to interfere with many enzymes by binding to their sulfhydryl groups.  Short term measurable effects of lead poisoning begin at 25 mcg/dl.  Obvious symptoms begin to occur at levels above 40mcg/dl in adults, and above 60 mcg/dl in children. 

The list of potential health problems related to lead is a very long one:  Lead can damage hearing, vision, muscle coordination, the blood, kidneys, heart, and reproductive system.  Symptoms can include abdominal pain, anemia, loss of appetite, constipation, delayed growth, depression, diarrhea, fatigue, headaches, irritability, decreased libido, memory loss, muscle pain, nausea, personality changes, problems with sleep, an unusual taste in the mouth, weakness, tingling in the extremities, vomiting, and weight loss.  In one recent study those people with blood lead levels in the top 20% (over 2.11 mcg/dl) of the subjects had 2.3 times the odds of suffering from a major depressive disorder, and almost 5 times to odds of having a panic disorder as those in the lowest 20% (under 0.7 mcg/dl).  (The average blood lead level of the group was 1.61 mcg/dl.)  (Young Adults’ Blood Lead Levels Linked to Depression, Panic Disorder)

Exposure to even low levels might cause irreversible learning difficulties and mental retardation in children.  One study found that the IQ scores of children dropped about 7 points across the sample as children’s blood lead levels varied from 1 mcg/dl to 10 mcg/dl. (2) (Very Low Lead Levels Linked With IQ Deficits)  

The current consensus is that there is no safe level of lead exposure.  Lead accumulates in the blood, soft tissues and bone; and its half-life is weeks in blood, months in soft tissues, and years in bone. 

In the past lead was used commonly in house paint, as an additive to gasoline, and as a pesticide.  One piece of good news in all this is that the Clean Air Act has helped reduce air emissions of lead nearly 90 percent during the last 20 years.

If you have a problem with lead contamination there are a number of things you can do to deal with it: 

Make sure your child’s blood is tested for lead before age 2, and regularly to age 6, if there is the possibility of lead in the child’s environment.  The major treatments are removal of the source of lead and possibly chelation therapy (administration of agents that bind lead so it can be excreted). (Chelation therapy – Wikipedia)

Around the home anything that has paint or a finish made before 1978 in the U.S. could be a source of lead.  (It was banned in France and many other countries before 1920.)  So you shouldn’t use cribs, bassinets, highchairs, painted toys, or toy chests made before that date.  Lead paint is still sometimes found in toys and toy jewelry made today, so you should keep up on toy recalls by checking the lead recall lists. (Toy Hazard Recalls – CPSC)  Unfortunately, 75% of the nation’s housing has lead paint.  Broken down by time period, 90% of pre-1940 buildings have it, 80% of pre-1960 ones have it, and 62% of pre-1978 buildings have it. 

Keep children away from paint chips (which they might eat) by closing and locking doors.  You should create barriers between living and play areas, and the sources of lead.  Apply temporary barriers such as contact paper or duct tape to cover lead sources. 

Lead contaminated dust can be created by the friction of opening windows and doors, it might be blown in - coming from distant contaminated soils, or it can be generated during home renovation on a pre-1978 house.  Lead dust is invisible and will pass through most masks and filters, so, if you have to sand or strip old paint that may contain lead, be sure to use a high quality mask to prevent inhalation of lead particles.  Regularly wash children’s hands, pacifiers, toys, and any other items that might go in the mouth.  Feed children nutritious low-fat meals high in calcium and iron, since this will reduce the amount of lead absorbed into the body.  Wet-mop and wipe floors, window components, and other horizontal surfaces (counters, tables or floors) frequently.  If possible, windows should be kept shut to prevent abrasion of painted surfaces, or only opened from the top sash.  Don’t vacuum with a regular vacuum because it just lets lead dust fly around, but instead use a vacuum cleaner that utilizes a HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) filter.  Pregnant women and children shouldn’t be present during a pre-1978 house renovation. 

Lead was often in exterior oil-based paint prior to 1950, and as it ages it often contaminates soil about a house where children play.  Stop children from playing in bare soil and close to the sides of the house.  Instead, provide them with a sandbox more than 3 feet away from it.  (If your do have a sandbox, parents should cover the box when it’s not in use to prevent cats from using it as a litter box.)  Plant grass on areas of bare soil, or cover the soil with mulch or wood chips.  Take off your shoes when you go inside, and, if you walk barefoot outside, wash your feet when you go indoors.   Also, give your pet’s feet, legs, and undersides a rubdown with a towel after taking them outdoors. 

Lead solder can contaminate house pipes, so, unless you know your pipes are uncontaminated, you should only use cold water from the tap for drinking or cooking.  Also, if water sits in a pipe for several hours flush it from the tap for two minutes before drinking.  You can also use a water filter to reduce the lead in the water you cook and drink with.  For example, a simple Brita water filter will remove around 9o% of the lead found in tap water.  

Replace inexpensive, horizontal, plastic blinds that have been made in Asia or Mexico, since these types of blinds often contain lead.  Pregnant women and children should not be exposed to burning candles that could contain lead in their wicks.  Don’t drink out of crystal glass.  Soft vinyl lunch boxes can have dangerous levels of lead.  Avoid using any personal care products that contain significant amounts of lead. 

Hobbies that often involve working with lead are making stained glass windows, working with pewter and other collectible figurines, the glazing and firing of pottery and ceramics, making lead weights, reloading and making ammunition, making lead shot, target practice, making lead fishing weights or lures, refinishing furniture, and remolding.  You should never sand, burn, or scrape paint unless you either know it doesn’t contain lead, or take the proper precautions.  You should shower and change clothes after finishing a task that involves working with lead-based products.

Sites where lead might be a problem are hazardous waste sites, an area where cars are abandoned or repaired, ballast on a ship, a heavily traveled major highway or roadway, and an older house with peeling exterior paint.  Also artificial turf playing fields have recently been found to produce a potentially hazardous amount of lead dust.

Other sources of lead are kohl (a South Asian cosmetic), sindoor (a cosmetic used by traditional Hindu and Sikh married women), herbal remedies (Ayurvedic preparations (Ghasard, Bala Goli, and Kandu), surma, and those of Chinese origin), and folk remedies (azarcon (also called Maria Luisa, Liga, Alarzon, Alkohl, Greta, Coral and Rueda), farouk, bint al zahab, and pay-loo-ah).  Additional sources are solder which was used in the past to seal cans of food, ceramic glazes, lead curtain weights, lead bullets from hunted animals, bullets lodged in a person’s joints (since they deteriorate over time), imported candies that contain tamarind or chili, contaminated pottery, containers, cookware, or tableware.  Older Christmas tree ornaments might be decorated with lead paint, and lead is in some tree light wires.  Old newspapers, paper bags, magazines, and comic books could have been made with lead based inks.  You should never burn treated lumber, since there will be heavy metals in the smoke.  Industrial facilities, urban runoff, and atmospheric deposition are all sources of lead in the aquatic environment.  Even your keys can often contain small amounts of lead.

Types of work that is typically associated with the risk of lead contamination include house construction and repair, shipbuilding, painting (especially marine related painting), iron processing, brass or copper foundry valve and pipe fitting, bronze work, welding, resurfacing, bridge, tunnel, and elevated highway construction; the demolition of bridges, towers, and other steel structures; lead battery manufacturing and recycling, radiator manufacturing and repair, scrap metal recycling, the electronics industry, the manufacture of some plastics, automotive repair, fishing weight production, leaded glass manufacturing, lead ore production, milling, and smelting; and municipal solid waste incinerators. 

If your workplace poses a risk of lead contamination there are a number of safety precautions you should take:  You should work with your employer to reduce lead and lead exposure in the workplace, perhaps by providing special ventilation equipment and/or fitted respirators.  Wash your hands and face before eating, drinking, or smoking.  Eat, drink, and smoke only in areas free of lead dust and fumes.  Wet clean and HEPA vacuum lead-contaminated dust.  Use separate work clothes and shoes while at work, and keep your street clothes in a clean place.  Shower at work before going home, and launder your work clothes at work.  If you take your work clothes home, wash and dry them separately.

For more information there are a number of sources you can contact.  Here are some numbers: 

EPA’s Safe Drinking Water Hotline 1-800-426-4791.  

National Lead Information Center 1-800-LEAD-FYI, or 1-800-424-LEAD (5323). 

Lead Surveillance and Reporting, Office of Epidemiology, 1-360-236-4252. 

For information about lead in the workplace call the Department of Labor and Industries, 1-360-902-5663. 

For a list of qualified testing laboratories for analysis of lead in paint, soil, or dust call 1-800-424-LEAD. Please specify that you are requesting the NLLAP/ELPAT list of laboratories.  

HUD’s Lead Reduction Office, see: http://www.hud.gov/lea/leahome

For a home test, see: http://leadtestkit.com/kits1.html

You can also talk to your state or local health department about testing paint and dust from your home for lead.

To permanently remove lead hazards, you have to hire a lead “abatement” contractor.  Call your local paint stores to find out if the contractor you’re considering has a good history with the store.  Find a contractor who has been in business for several years, and can offer references. The longer they’ve been in business, the more they will likely know about lead.  Find a contractor with whom you feel comfortable, and who can answer your questions and explain their work.   

(1) Only one of the many consequences of this might have been a nationwide crime wave.  A number of recent studies have shown a strong correlation between atmospheric lead levels and crime rates.  The sharp decline in US crime rates, which began in the early 1990s, correlates perfectly with the reduction of leaded gasoline in the early 1970s.  Other countries have seen similar declines, also delayed by twenty years. (The Ethyl-Poisoned Earth by Alan Bellows)

(2)  Throughout this entire discussion there exists the common problem of inferring causation from correlation.  Since direct experiments with humans would be unethical, many results require an assumption that lead is actually the cause of a health problem.  At higher levels of contamination this assumption is unproblematic, but at lower levels this can be a source of uncertainty.  Looking at the national lead standards for blood toxicity through the years, in the space of about 50 years, they have changed six-fold from 60 mcg/dl to 10mcg/dl.  One reason to be skeptical of a 7 point IQ drop because of such low lead levels is that this suggests that people who grew up in the 1950’s and 1960’s would have had greatly reduced IQ’s, and this doesn’t seem to have been the case. 

In 1960, 60 mcg/dl
In 1970, 40 mcg/dl
In 1975, 35 mcg/dl
In 1985, 25 mcg/dl
In 1991, 10 mcg/dl

It is certainly possible that raising a child’s blood lead level from 1 mcg/dl to 10 mcg/dl directly causes an average 7 point drop in IQ.  The problem here is that there are potentially hundreds of confounding variables that could be creating the observed correlation.  It’s possible that children with lower IQ’s have a greater tendency to chew on paint chips, be less well-nourished, or attend poorer schools.  Also, parents with lower IQ’s might have a greater likelihood of living in lower quality housing and in more contaminated neighborhoods, be less aware of the dangers of lead poisoning, or be less competent when taking precautions, etc.  So, the connection between lead at low levels and IQ could be one of children inheriting genes from relatively lower IQ parents, which predispose them to also have lower IQ’s.  

In short, while it is entirely reasonable to take no unnecessary chances with lead poisoning (personally I would prefer my blood level to be literally zero), it’s only careful to remember that researchers haven’t actually established an airtight connection between the low blood lead levels and the observed health effects they are currently concerned about.  (From: Toxic Lead Levels by Valerie)

(Lead – CDC) (Lead – Prevention Tips – CDC) (Lead – Sources of Lead – CDC)  (Lead Poisoning Fact Sheet) (The Basics about Lead Paint – Home Safe Environment) (Lead Poisoning – Wikipedia) (How to Lower The Risk of Your Child Getting Lead Poisoning – eHow) (Simple ways to help prevent childhood lead poisoning - iVillage) (Helping Parents Prevent Lead Poisoning. ERIC Digest. by Binns, Helen J. – Ricks, Omar Benton) (Lead Poisoning: Prevention – MayoClinic) (Ways To Prevent Lead Poisoning by Dr. Ben Kim) (How to Prevent Lead Poisoning) (Prevention of Lead Poisoning – Cure Research) (Campaign for Lead Safety Awareness – Angie’s List) (Lead Poisoning Prevention – KeepKidsHealthy)

According to the CDC, poisonings killed 32,691 people in the United States in 2005.  About 72% of these were unintentional (23,618), 10% undetermined (3,240), 18% suicides (5,744), and 0.3% homicides (89).  To understand where the bulk of this risk is coming from it’s important to know that 95% of the unintentional poisoning related deaths were caused by drugs.  The most common drugs involved, in descending order, were opioid pain medications, cocaine, and heroin.  Benzodiazepines, sedatives, hypnotics, and antidepressants were also commonly involved.  (Poisoning in the United States: Fact Sheet – CDC)   

If we look at poisonings of children under age 6, in 2001, drugs accounted for 42% of poisonings, and non-drugs accounted for 58% of the total.  90% of these events occurred at home.  (Pediatric Poisoning by John P. Lamb)

Drug poisonings in this age group involved analgesics (19%), topicals (19%), cold/cough (15%), vitamins (10%), antimicrobials (8%), GI preps (9%), hormones (7%), antihistamines (7%), minerals/Lytes (3%), and antidepressants (3%).  Among analgesics the percentages were ibuprofen (40%), acetaminophen (31%), others (11%), combination (10%), aspirin (5%), and opiates (3%).  

Non-drug poisonings in children under 6 involved cosmetics (26%), cleaners (22%), foreign bodies (15%), plants (13%), pens/inks (6%), pesticides (5%), hydrocarbons (4%), foods (3%), rodenticides (3%), and alcohols (3%).  The pesticides involved were insecticides (51%), rodenticides (22%), repellents (14%), herbicides (10%), fungicides (2%), and fumigants (1%).  Insecticide exposures in 2002 were from the following sources: Pyrethrin (37%), organophosphate (22%), others (16%), borates (8%), unknown (8%), Carbamate (6%), combinations (5%), Chlorinated HC (3%), Arsenic (1%), and Metaldehyde (0%).  Herbicide exposure in 2002 was 14,021, and was from the following sources: other (43%), Glyphosate (32%), Chlorophenoxy (15%).  

The effects of pesticide exposure broke down in the following way: no effect 21,844 (55%), minor effect 14,563 (37%), moderate effect 2,661 (7%), major effect 274 (0.7%), death 18 (0.05%). 

The routes of exposure were oral (76%), dermal (8%), inhalation (6%), ocular (5%), bite/sting (4%), and other (1%). 

The common characteristics across poisoning situations for children were availability, attractiveness, and taste.  This isn’t surprising since 47% of households with children under 5 living in them had pesticides stored in an unlocked cabinet less than 4 feet high.  75% of households without children under 5 also had pesticides stored unsafely, which might not seem to be much of a problem, except for the fact that 13% of pesticide poisonings occurred in a home other than the child’s own. 

Hazardous substances fall into a number of categories: Reactive ones are unstable and produce dangerous byproducts.  Corrosives are acidic or alkaline, and will eat away at substances.  Ignitables can catch fire.  Toxic substances are by definition poisons.

In your garage or shed you might have antifreeze (which tastes sweet to dogs and cats), other automotive fluids, cleaning fluids, hand cleaner, car soaps, rust remover, lamp oil, polish and wax, fertilizer, weed killer, gasoline and kerosene, lighter fluid, lime or lye, mothballs, paint, paint thinner and stripper (paint strippers are among the most dangerous products in your home), pesticides (such as rat and other rodent poisons), insecticides (such as roach sprays and ant baits), insect repellents,  turpentine, pool chemicals, charcoal lighter, windshield washer fluid, and anti-freeze .  

In your kitchen you might have ammonia, bug sprays and traps, floor wax, cleansers (including floor, carpet, oven cleaner, and window), disinfectants, drain openers, medicines (both prescription and over-the-counter), glues, polish (for furniture, metals or glass), soaps and detergents.  (Note: You should be very careful about mixing cleaning products.  For instance, if you mix bleach with toilet bowl cleaners (or ammonia) this combination will form very deadly chlorine gas.)

In your bedroom you might have cosmetics, perfumes, colognes, cough medicine, prescription drugs, and sleeping aids. 

In your bathroom you might have aftershave lotion, baby oil, toothpaste, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, bath oil, cleansers (including floor, window, toilet bowl, and tub/tile cleaners), disinfectants, deodorizers and sanitizers, products used to kill mold or mildew, drain openers, hair removers, hair colors and perm solutions, nail products, personal hygiene products, mouthwash, ointments, flea and tick shampoos, powders and dips for pets, and shampoo. 

In your laundry room you might have laundry detergents, softeners, bleach, cleaning fluids, soaps, stain removers, and spray starch.

One special case is that of your art supplies.  Lead glazes can cause lead poisoning.  Rubber cements can cause nerve damage.  Acrylic paints can contain formaldehyde.  Oil paints, or anything that requires solvents, can be toxic.  Darkroom chemicals can be hazardous.  Dust from sanding can trigger allergic reactions.  Copper salt dust can be toxic.  Turpentine can strip oil off skin, making it vulnerable.  “Zinc shakes” and “bronze fever” have occurred. 

Often the dose does make the poison, so be aware of the extent of your exposure and try to space it out.  Temperature can also make a difference, since in warm temperatures liquids evaporate more quickly.   (Using Art Materials Safely) (Art and Hobby Materials) (Health Hazards Manual for Artists by Michael McCann) 

For children you should make sure everything is labeled non-toxic.   Safe materials for children include crayons, colored pencils, water colors, finger paints, many modeling materials, some inks, and some glues.  (ACTS : Arts, Crafts & Theatre Safety) (Kids Art)       

Other hazards you might have in your home are alcoholic beverages, vitamins, supplements, diet pills, hair sprays, colognes, nail polish and remover, furniture polish, cigarettes, nicotine patches, folk remedies and herbal preparations, ammunition, and batteries (including button cell batteries like those in watches). 

One basic way of minimizing the danger from hazardous substances, etc. is by limiting your use of them and educating yourself about safer alternatives.  Most household cleaners can be replaced by five things: plain soap, borax, baking soda, vinegar, and ammonia.  Instead of cough medicine you can mix honey and lemon juice with hot water.  Instead of iodine you can use soap and water.  (Home Safe Home by Deborah Lynn Dadd, Nontoxic, Natural & Earthwise by Deborah Lynn Dadd, and Green Seal)  The general rule is to use the least powerful chemical necessary to do the job.  The warnings run from “DANGER, DANGER – POISON,” to “WARNING,” to “CAUTION.”  Get the product designed to address your specific problem, and, unless you are an expert, only buy pesticides labeled for general use. 

For the dangerous things that you do decide to keep in your house (the following advice includes medicines) store all hazardous substances separately in a locked and high cabinet protected from heat and cold.  Return a container to the cabinet immediately after removing the amount needed.  (You need to consider how best to secure your cosmetics, given the number of poisonings they cause.)  For a second layer of defense put child safety caps on all of the containers you can.  But don’t rely on packaging to protect your kids, since child-resistant packaging does not mean childproof packaging. Keep children and pets away from a work area, and remove toys.  Obviously, a woman who is pregnant should stay away when hazardous chemicals are being used.   

Always keep dangerous substances in their original containers, since their labels provide valuable information in the event of an accident, and substituting other containers invites deadly confusion. (You should apply transparent tape over the labels to keep them legible.)  You should read these labels (and any relevant safety data sheets that are available) and know the details about what you have. (1)  Follow their advice regarding the recommended safety precautions and product restrictions, and contact the manufacturer if you have any questions.  For example, use neoprene gloves, eye goggles, long sleeves, long pants, socks, shoes, proper cross-ventilation, and masks if the label says to. 

Make sure your equipment is in good working condition.  Open containers carefully with a rag around the cap.  Proper ventilation requires by definition a large turnover of air.  Turn on a fan (unless a substance is highly flammable) and open several windows when using chemical products such as household cleaners.  Don’t use power tools with flammable materials.  Mix insect sprays outdoors away from areas used by people and pets, and stay upwind.  Basements can allow fumes to collect near the floor.  Don’t spray when it’s windy.  Follow the waiting times before allowing anyone into the area treated.  You should never keep gasoline in your home, but if you do use a specifically designed container for gasoline.  Some paint strippers will produce toxic gas if used in direct sunlight.  Only use the amount of product recommended for the application, clean up any spills as soon as they happen, and wash off thoroughly after any contact with a hazardous substance.  Don’t apply a pesticide more often than recommended.  Be sure you know how close to harvest you can apply a product.  If you are working with poisons don’t wear leather belts or shoes.  Don’t smoke, drink, or eat when handling these materials.  Re-close containers if interrupted (e.g. phone call or doorbell) during an application or dosing.  Remember that most poisonings happen when a product is in use.  Often something is going on which distracts people, such as someone is sick, there has been a death in the family, or it is mealtime. 

Wash all sprayed fruits and vegetables.  One method is to put them in vinegar and water for a few minutes, and rinse again with water.  You should wash your clothes three times separately after exposure to strong pesticides.  Triple rinse tools, equipment, or empty containers.  Puncture empty containers so they can’t be reused, and dispose of them according to directions. 

Only buy and mix what you need, then use it up.  In other words, don’t buy in bulk.  If you store hazardous substances for long periods of time they can react with their containers, which can then leak.  Another problem is that their labels can become worn. 

You should properly dispose of expired materials.  Do not burn them.  Also, don’t  burn or reuse their containers.  Don’t burn plywood or lumber that has been treated with preservatives, the resulting fumes can be thick with heavy metals. 

Your local public health or hazardous-waste organization is often the best place to find information about how to dispose of a product.  Some things such are motor oil, or batteries, can be recycled.  Hazardous waste often needs to be put into special landfills. 

You need to know the names of your medications and supplements, both prescription and over-the-counter.  When you take or give medicine put your glasses on, turn on the lights, and read the label every time.  Always check for the proper dose, and be sure you are giving the right medication to the right person.  Never take another person’s medicine.  Take medicine at the correct time of day, and keep track of when you took it by writing it down if necessary.  Know and don’t confuse the abbreviations for tablespoon (Tbsp) and teaspoon (tsp).   Avoid making conversions.  If the label says two teaspoons, and you’re using a dosing cup with ounces only, get another measuring device.  If the medicine came with a measuring device use only that device.  Know how much medication you have, so you can tell if any is missing by regularly doing a count, and keeping a line marked on bottles.  

Never guess on the amount of medicine that should be given to someone.  For example, kids aren’t just small adults; half an adult amount may be more than your child needs, or not enough to help.  Always follow the age limit recommendations.  Twice the dose obviously isn’t appropriate just because your child seems twice as sick as last time. 

It can be confusing when there are multiple caregivers giving medications to someone.  Be sure to communicate to each other every dose you give, and also write down each dose given in a log.

Medications can interact with each other.  If someone is already taking one medicine, check with your doctor before adding any other meds to be sure they are compatible.  If multiple doctors are prescribing a variety of medications, be sure to communicate with each doctor and your pharmacist so they can check for drug interactions.  Some medicines will interact with certain foods, some need to be taken with food, some without. 

Never leave vitamin bottles, aspirin bottles, or other medications on kitchen tables, countertops, bedside tables, or dresser tops.  Children will imitate you, so ideally take your medicines where children can’t watch, and never call medicine candy.  Teach children to ask before eating or drinking anything.  Talk about prescription drugs, and stress that they are only safe for the person who receives the prescription from the doctor.  (For advice on how to talk to your child/teen go to www.drugfree.org)  Something as seemingly harmless as pain-relieving skin creams will often contain benzocaine, dibucaine or lidocaine.  A child who swallows just a small amount of these can have seizures and might even die.

Throw away expired medications in the garbage.  Don’t put them down the sink or toilet because they can contaminate the water supply.  For privacy sake remove the labels.  Keep children and pets away from the garbage.  Crush old pills and mix them with sand, coffee grounds, or kitty litter.  Place them inside a container such as an empty yogurt or margarine tub and tape it shut.  Your health department might know of a place to take old medicines.  (Poison Prevention Tips)

At Christmas time don’t put presents like perfumes and after-shaves under the tree, but put them out of the reach of children.  Clean up immediately after parties, so alcohol or cigarettes won’t be a temptation for children.  

Mothballs should be hung in containers. If they are used in closets or chests, they should be put out of children’s reach.  Bait traps should be tamper-resistant.  Store bottles of alcohol in a locked cabinet far from kids’ reach, and remember that food extracts, such as vanilla and almond, may contain alcohol that can be harmful to kids. 

When you have party guests designate a locked room where relatives and guests can place their coats and purses that may contain medications.  Ingesting as few as six cigarette butts can send a child to the hospital, so you should empty ash trays often.  Remove and empty partially filled glasses of alcoholic beverages.  Be aware of any legal or illegal drugs that guests may bring into your home. Do not let guests leave drugs where children can find them, for example, in a pillbox, purse, backpack, or coat pocket.  Be aware of all medications in your home (and in the homes of your relatives if your kids spend time there).

If relatives come to stay through the holidays, be sure their medications are put away.  Lock medicines in a suitcase or, if in a purse, place it out of reach.  Buy plastic plants with fake berries, not the real ones.

You should have the national poison hotline by each phone, the number is 1-800-222-1222.    They will want to know the condition, weight, and age of the person.  Have they been sick, and if so, what medications have they been on?  Do they have any allergies?  Also, have a poison first-aid chart at hand.  (Poison First Aid) (Poison First Aid) (Emergency First-Aid Chart) 

Here is some general advice for specific situations:  Has the person collapsed or stopped breathing? Call 911 or your local emergency number right away.  Do you have poison in the eyes?  Then rinse your eyes with warm running water for 15 to 20 minutes.  What about poison on your skin?  You should take off any clothing that the poison touched, and rinse your skin with running water for 15 to 20 minutes.  Have you Inhaled poison?  You should get to fresh air right away.  Did you swallow the wrong medicine or too much medicine?  Then don’t take anything by mouth.  Have you swallowed something that’s not food or medicine?  You should then drink a small amount of milk or water.  You should also keep a supply of ipecac syrup on hand (to induce vomiting if necessary). 

Plants:

Identify all the plants in your home and yard by taking them into a nursery, greenhouse, or florist.  Label the pots, and make a map of the yard.  Don’t assume a plant is safe because birds or wildlife eat it.  Remember that even a safe plant can be a choking hazard.  You can try to remove material from a child’s mouth with a damp washcloth wrapped around your finger.  Store seeds, bulbs, and plant food out of the reach of children.  Seeds and bulbs might be coated with fungicides and insecticides. (Poisoncenter Brochure)

Teach children to not eat wild plants or mushrooms.  It’s easy to confuse safe and unsafe ones.  Unless you are an expert, you cannot tell poisonous mushrooms from safe mushrooms.  Mushrooms that are called “death caps” (Amanita phalloides, Amanita verna) grow easily in yards and parks. Eating even a few bites can cause fatal liver damage. Mushrooms will often sprout up after a rain.  Inspect your yard and remove them.  If you do decide to go mushroom hunting get a good guide and read up. (Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora, The Mushroom Hunter’s Field Guide by Alexander Smith, and Mushrooms of North America by Orson K. Miller)   You should note the environment, shape, color, odor, terrain, whether it is growing in a cluster or alone.  Since many mushrooms are very similar, all of the characteristics must match for you to know what you have.  Check for a fetid odor, signs of decomposition, or worm infestation.  Try only a few at first, and set a few aside in case you are poisoned. 

Dividing plants into safe and unsafe ones is a crude method of categorizing them.  So, the list below is only a very rough guide, and, of course, it is far from complete.  Ideally you should identify each plant you are likely to be exposed to by its scientific name, and know the degree and nature of its toxicity. 

Safe Plants:

Houseplants: African Violet, Air Fern, Aluminum Plant, Asparagus Fern, Baby Tears, Beauty Bush, Begonia, Common Blood leaf, Boston Fern, Bridal Veil, Bromeliad, Christmas Cactus, Coleus Blumei, False Aralia, Gloxinia, Hoya, Hibiscus, Inch Plant, Jade, Kalanchoe, Lipstick Plant, Norfolk Pine, Palm – Big Leaf, Peperomia, Piggyback Plant, Poinsettias are not that harmful, Prayer Plant, Snake Plant, Spider Plant, Spider Aralia, Swedish Ivy, Umbrella Plant, Wandering Jew, Yucca, Zebra Plant, and Zinnia.  Garden: Aster, Baby’s Breath, Coral Bell, Crocus - Spring, Dahlia, Fuschia, Golden Sedum, Impatiens, Lily (Easter, Tiger), Nasturtium, Petunia, and Snapdragon.  Field Plants: Dandelion.  Trees:  Mountain Ash and Mulberry.  Ornamentals: Autumn Olive, Forsythia, Lilac, and Pussywillow. Miscellaneous: Christmas tree preservatives are usually not toxic, but check the label, and Nandia berries.

Unsafe Plants (It’s probably best to simply not have these in the house.):

Houseplants:  Amaryllis, Bird of Paradise, Burro Tail, Caladium, Crown of Thorns, Dumbcane, Elephant’s Ear, Gardenia, Jerusalem Cherry, Mother In Law’s Tongue, Philodendron, Pothos, and Purple Passion.  Garden Plants:  Aconite, Bleeding Heart, Bloodroot, Christmas Rose, Crocus - Autumn, Daffodil, Daisy, Delphinium, Dutchman’s Breeches, Eucalyptus, Four O’clock, Foxglove, Gladiola, Heather, Hellebore, Hyacinth, Iris, Jimsonweed, Jonquil, Larkspur, Lily of the Valley, Lobelia, Lupine, Monk’s Hood, Morning glory, Narcissus, Nicotiana, Star of Bethlehem, Sweet Pea, and Wolfsbane.  Field Plants: Angel’s Trumpet, Baneberry, Bittersweet, Buttercup, Dogbane, Goldenrod, Nightshade, English Ivy, Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac, Pokeweed, Queen Anne’s Lace, Snow on the Mountain, Spurge, and Virginia Creeper.  Trees: Black Locust, Buckeye, Chinaberry Tree, Elderberry, Dogwood, Jatropha, Oak, and Wild Black Cherry.  Ornamentals: Atropa Belladonna, Azalea, Carolina Jessamine, Cotoneaster, Daphne, Golden Chain, Heath Family, Holly, Hydrangea, Jessamine, Juniper, Lantana, Mistletoe, Mountain Laurel, Oleander, Privet, Rhododendron, Wisteria, and Yew.  Woods: Baneberry, Death Camas, Jack in the Pulpit, and May Apple.  Swamps: Cowbane, False Parsley, Hemlock, and Skunk Cabbage.  Miscellaneous: Boxwood, Castor Bean, Java Bean, Jequirity Bean, Potato (green parts), Rosary Pea, and Rhubarb (leaf blades).  (Know Your Plants – Connecticut Poison Control Center)

(1)  Having said this, you can’t fully trust the instructions, since researchers have found they can be wrong.  They have also found that local poison control centers will often be wrong, so the advice is to call the regional and national ones.

(Poison Prevention Tips)(Poison Prevention Brochures)(Poison Prevention Checklist)(Pesticide Poison Prevention Checklist) (HOUSEHOLD GUIDE TO POISON CONTROL) (Household Safety: Preventing Poisoning) (Preventing Poisoning: 10 Things You Need to Know)(Tips to Prevent Poisonings - CDC) (Poisoning in the United States: Fact Sheet) (Holiday Safety Tips) (Preventing Poisoning) (Preventing Poisoning: Safety Tips for You, Your Family, and Friends) (Poison Prevention.org) (Poison Prevention.org) (Home Safety Council Index) (Home Safety Council – Bathroom Poison Safety)  (Kitchen Poison Safety- Home Safety Council) (Poison Prevention Tips – Home Safety Council) (Outdoor Poisonings and Chemicals – Home Safety Council) (Pediatric Poisoning by John P. Lamb) (Poisoning in the United States: Fact Sheet - CDC)